The Fatherly Podcast: Laird Hamilton Won’t Stop Riding Giants
The legendary surfer talks about fear, homeschooling, and getting caught in the riptide.
Big wave surfing isn’t a half-bad metaphor for parenting: The slightest mistake can mean monumental consequences, but no matter how tough the water is, there’s no choice but to keep paddling through it. Corny as that may sound, it’s a lesson Laird Hamilton has taken to heart as both a famed surfer and a father of three girls. Unsurprisingly, the inventor of tow-in surfing and conqueror of what’s been dubbed “the heaviest ever ridden” doesn’t have much he’s afraid of – except for his kids’ safety.
For the second episode of The Fatherly Podcast‘s new season, Laird called host Joshua David Stein from Hawai’i to talk about why fatherhood makes him feel more vulnerable than being out in the ocean and his new documentary Take Every Wave, which traces his rise from childhood rebel to revolutionary surfing icon.
Be sure to check back every Tuesday for a brand new episode of The Fatherly Podcast.