How to Buy a Great Men’s Flannel Shirt You’ll Wear Forever

A truly great flannel shirt is an extension of its owner. It’s a steadfast piece of clothing, one you can throw on at a moment’s notice and feel fine in. You could consider it a more socially acceptable alternative to the sweatshirt, but it’s way more than that. It’s rugged. It’s stylish. It has a longer lifespan than the dog, but smells a bit like the dog and can be similarly trusted not to judge or take exception to having food dropped on it.

Flannel is everywhere these days. But, even in an age of flannel ubiquity, a great, long-lasting men’s flannel shirt is hard to find. Don’t be fooled: Most new versions are made of lesser materials sewn around ill-considered patterns. To find a flannel shirt suited to shiftless Sundays, home games, and social events, one must know precisely what makes the shirt something special: the right clothing material and a decent fit. Here, according to expert flannel purveyors, is how to find it.

How to Find the Right Flannel Shirt Material

“Start with the cotton,” says Rob Rosenblum, Chief Operating Officer at Dakota Grizzly. “The longer and cleaner the cotton size, the nicer quality of cotton you have.”

It used to be that almost every flannel shirt was made of 100 percent cotton. Woolrich, Pendleton, and even Abercrombie built fortunes on the back of the stuff. But as manufacturing methods modernized and cheap, stretchable fabrics came into vogue, the purists found themselves in a minority. Today, shoppers have to check or buy vintage.

“A 100 percent cotton flannel is going to feel different than a cotton-poly blend or a different synthetic material,” explains Brian Davis, who runs the popular Brooklyn-based used clothing store Wooden Sleepers. “It might not seem like a difference but if you’re looking to have a flannel that becomes comfier and seems to fit better over time, you’re going to want to go cotton.”

As for what materials you should avoid, Stephania Schwartz, a stylist at the clothing subscription service Stitch Fix recommends you steer clear of polyester. Polyester, she points out, “sours quickly with sweat, which is a no-no.” Part of the point of wearing a flannel shirt all the time is that your partner or kids can borrow it or treat it like an avatar (dance with it, confide in it). That doesn’t work if the shirt stinks.

READ MORE: 5 Quick Tips For Dressing Like You Give a Damn

How to Find The Perfect Flannel Shirt Fit

Whether you’re buying a new suit or shirt, getting everything taken in is key (if you have to get everything taken out, it’s too late for looking good). That’s not necessarily the case for flannels. In fact, Davis believes that “Flannels should not fit too perfectly.” Why? Because of the very reason we’ve all come to love these shirts: they’re built to be worn hard. “These are shirts meant for activity and movement, so being too precious about fit is not a good place to start,” he adds. “A flannel is at its best when it fits like an overshirt. Not baggy, but not tailor fit.” The basic idea is that you’re looking for something closer to “security blanket” than “second skin”

The more cynical case for sizing up a bit has to do with the fact that, hey, you’re not getting any younger,

“Flannels are a lot like jeans,” Rosenblum says. “Consumers expect them to get more comfortable over time. People never want to have to size up because of an uncomfortable fit. So make sure any flannel you try on isn’t too big or too small.”

But how can you tell what shirt will stand the test of time? Consider the things about yourself that are least likely to change. Think about the shoulders and sleeve and then make sure that the shirt doesn’t hang lower than the middle of your front pocket (you are, in this scenario, wearing jeans). Does that focus guarantee success? No. Understanding that success is never guaranteed is a big part of the flannel lifestyle. But it does give your 100 percent cotton buddy a fighting chance.

What Else Should I Keep In Mind When Buying a Flannel Shirt?

After you have established a plan for material and fit, what else do you need to know while you’re on the hunt for that perfect flannel? Stitch Fix stylist Jennifer D. advises considering context, taste, and — if you’re into the whole 9-to-5 thing — professionalism.

“Keep your occasion in mind,” Jennifer explains. “If you’re looking for an over-the-tee with jeans, laid-back weekend flannel, opt for a hybrid or regular fit. Want a flannel that can pull double duty for both work and weekend? Shop for a flannel that fits closer to the body so you can wear it the same way you would a classic oxford or dress shirt.”

At the end of the day, Davis just wishes customers would stop settling for flannels they don’t love.

“We turn down 99 percent of flannels due to their poor quality,” he laughs. “We are always searching for that one gem that we know people are going to love. Customers should have a similar mentality. Hold out for the one you are really excited about.”